SRI LANKA


4. Horseback Riding in Nuwara Eliya
Kandy is a big city. Buddha's tooth is dedicated in Dalada Maligawa, called Temple of the Tooth in Knady. That was bombed before, so security check was very strict.
Kandy and Nuwara Eliya are in the hilly districts. It get chilly at night and early morning. But a hot shower is available at the hotels there.
The road between Kandy and Nuwara Eliya was narrow and winding. But drivers drove fast, very fast. And they overtook so often. We overtook many cars, but many vehicles overtook us. There were huge tea plantations there, and it was very beautiful. However, I was scared to death. By the way, viewing the landscape from the train-window between Kandy and Nuwara Eliya is extremely beautiful.

There is a horserace course in Nuwara Eliya. This is the only one racecourse in Sri Lanka. It takes about 10 minutes from the town center on foot. When I was there, Races didn't take place. But it was O.K. to enter and walk. Grass course and 1 round 1 km length. While I was walking, 2 men appeared. Then they offered me a horseback ride. I said, "Yes." They were a jockey and a groom. I negotiated the price, and then went to the ride on the race truck. It was the first experience to ride on a real racecourse. I wasn't able to imagine that I could ride on a horse in Sri Lanka. Of course it was great.

Nuwara Eliya RacecourseA jockey (right) & a groom (left)
Not only racehorses but also ridding horses are there. And trekking courses are provided. If you want, please try. But there are no signboards there, so you should go into a stable and ask it. Outside of the racecourse, horses were there. They were ridding horses, but walking only.

5. Too Many Travelers Coming to Safari
I expected that safari in Yala would be great, but it depressed me. On that day, it was a national holiday and many local people visited there. There were too many people coming there. So wild animals went away. I saw crocodiles and water buffalos; however, I wasn't able to see any elephants.

Water Buffalos
They were always in the water.

6. Reunion
Hikkaduwa, it is famous for surfing. When we arrived there, the tour was over. I gave the driver a tip, and said thanks and good by. This was the end of the tour but this was the beginning of my own tour. After the driver had gone, I went out for a walk. When I happened to pass a jewelry shop, a shop owner talked to me. He told me he wanted me to translate his business card from English to Japanese for Japanese tourists. Incidentally, Sri Lanka is famous for gems. I entered the shop and he gave me his card and I translated. We were having a chat for a while. But he was a businessman. He naturally changed a subject. He tried selling gems. He said "If you buy gems here, and sell them in Japan, you could get a lot of money." I understood everything that he just wanted to sell gems to me. But when I listened to his explanation, I would believe him and I would buy gems. He showed me Japanese jewelry shops' address. He said, "If you doubt me, I will call my Japanese friends."
I didn't buy anything. But I was really attracted to beautiful gems. They were mystically beautiful, so I almost decided to buy one of them. In fact, Sri Lanka's gems are cheaper than Japanese. Many Japanese go there to buy. If you gems, certification must be required.

When I saw a map in a hotel, I realized that Elpitiya was very close. Elpitiya was the place where the family I met in Polonnaruwa lived. So I decided to visit them. I got on a bus and went to Ambalangoda, and then I changed a bus to go to Elpitiya. I asked people for the direction of their address. But they didn't know. Finally I found them by asking taxi drivers. One of them took me there. When they saw me, they were really surprised but they welcomed me with warm hospitality. They didn't have water and electricity, but they gave me lunch. We talked very much. They said they liked Japanese TV drama, Oshin. They watched it at friend's house. I didn't want to leave, but I had to go. I promised that I would come back again some day. They were very nice people.

7. Colombo
On that day, I stayed at Ambalangoda, near Elpitiya. On the next day, I went to Colombo by train. Buses and trains were always full of passengers, of course no air conditioner. The tourist car didn't have air conditioner, but it was very comfortable when comparing those.
There were many soldiers guarding in Colombo. One of them told me they caught a guerrilla carrying a bomb yesterday. I happened to walk into the governmental area. I just remembered a warning on dangerous area issued by the Foreign Ministry. I read it before coming to Sri Lanka. It warned me not to get close to this area, but I had forgotten. Finally I came back to the hotel safe.
In this connection, I saw many beggars and disabled people in Colombo and other big cities. Sri Lanka is trying to develop itself. On the other hand, such poor people are abandoned.
With regard to accommodation, I stayed at the Sri Lanka Ex-Servicemen's Institute, next to YMCA. It took about 10 minutes from Colombo Fort Station on foot. This had several single rooms, but I chose dormitory style room. It cost $3. There were 12 beds in a room. I shared the room with 1 French lady and 1 Israeli. We talked a lot about our trip and impression of Sri Lanka. We exchanged our information. I wanted to go to Sri Pada, so I asked the French and she told me how to go there.

8. To the top of Sri Pada
I left the hotel, and then I headed for a bus station to go to Hatton. She gave me a direction to go to Sri Pada last night. She told me I had to go to Hatton first, and then I needed to change a bus to go to Nallathaniya. It was at the foot of Sri Pada. It took about 3 hours from Colombo to Hatton. The bus was a long-distance intercity bus with air conditioner. Bus fare was about $1. From Hatton to Nallathaniya, it took about 1 and a half hour. Regarding hotel, the French lady recommended me Green House. It is mentioned with Lonely Planet; however, Japanese guide book doesn't mention it. It cost about $10 with a single room including breakfast and dinner. I recommend as well.
I got up at 3 a.m. next morning, and then I was heading for the top. There were many shops on the both side of a path. They sold food, drinks, souvenirs, etc. The path was very steep and it made me tired. I would almost give up to clime. Finally I got to the top before sunrise. However, It was foggy, a very dense fog so I was not able to see anything. While I was at the top, I got acquainted with local people again. They climbed from Ratnapura, the opposite side of Nallathaniya. They gave me some sandwiches and tea. And we took photos together. They said, "Come to our house." But I left my luggage at Green House. So I had to go back. What a pity. I said to them "Good by. Take care."

The view of Sri Pada seen from the
halfway up the mountain. It's foggy.
Local people at the top.

Local high school students whom I met when I descended.
They showed me a Japanese temple. Then, we took photos there.

I got back to Green House, and then I ate a big breakfast. It was raining, and I was really tired, so I decided to stay here one more night. Green House had a shower, but I bathed in a river. It was very comfortable even if water was very cold.
This is my story of Sri Pada climb. Incidentally Nallathaniya means beautiful water, the high school students said.

I left Green House, and was heading for Matale via Kandy. I spent a day for transfer from Sri Pada to Matale. There was a temple called Aluvihara. That was in a cave and was very old. I visited there, and then I went back to Colombo. I caught a bus and went to the airport. The Sri Lanka trip was over.

9. Conclusion
I met many people in Sri Lanka. And I still keep in touch with some of them. Sri Lanka people are very kind and they like Japan and Japanese. One person said, "I want to go to Japan. That is my dream." Of course I met some dubious people, but they are nice memories of Sri Lanka including everything. I never forget them. Although old ruins and landscapes are great, meeting with local people and keeping company with them are the best things during traveling.
I wish the ethnic war end soon. I hope to see my friends again. I wish happiness to all of Sri Lanka people.